THE .410 - WHY AND WHY NOT

It's a good bet that any shooter you ask will tell you the first gun they ever shot was either a .22 rim fire or a .410 shotgun.  The two things these guns have in common is their relatively low recoil.  The .22 has almost no recoil and can be extremely accurate, so it makes perfect sense for the new shooter.  The .410 however is likely chosen only for it's light weight and low recoil (in terms of shotguns).

While recoil is a good thing to avoid with new shooters, it's also advisable to let the new shooter hit something, lest they get discouraged and give up the sport.  Therein lies the issue with the .410.  The small shot payload of 1/2 ounce in a 2.5" shell just isn't a lot of lead.  Even the 3 inch shells only carry 11/16 of an ounce.  To maximize the killing power of these small shot charges gun makers build nearly all .410 guns with a full choke, keeping patterns tight.  Tight yes, but small too, making it difficult to hit flying targets.  This is why you often hear the .410 termed an "experts gun".  It's the hardest to hit with.



My suggestion on introducing shooters to shotgunning is to allow them to use the .410 on stationary targets on the ground.  Combine this practice with some time patterning the gun on a large piece of cardboard to get a feel for where the gun shoots and just how small the pattern is.  Then turn them loose on slower moving close in birds if possible.  That way they have some idea of how the gun feels and what happens to the shot after it leaves the barrel.  These close, slow, birds will still teach the concept of lead, but increase the chance of hitting with the .410.  Of course, a 28 gauge is a better option, but fewer of us own a 28 than a .410.  So, use what you have.

There are other reasons to shoot a .410 other than teaching new shooters.  Experienced shooters often like to "handicap" themselves by shooting the little gun.  Theory being, If I can hit birds with the .410, I can surly do it with a larger gun.

Hunters have a mixed history with the .410 bore.  Some shun it as a kid's gun, but it can be more appropriate for certain game than larger gauge guns.  Do you really need to blast a rabbit or a squirrel with a 12 gauge?  The .410 with it's modest payload and super tight pattern allows for clean head shots on small game without scattering the rest of the animal with shot.



It's the self defense role that has caused a resurgence in the .410 lately.  With the advent of the Taurus Judge and S&W Governor, suddenly everyone was interested in .410 shells.  This has flooded the market with all sorts of ammo designed with defense in mind.  Some of these shells are quite nasty. Winchester's PDX loads combine buckshot with lead discs that resemble throat lozenges.

You name it, someone is probably stuffing it into a .410 shell and selling it.  I have to say, I'm not big on exotic ammo for self defense.  It's enough to stop the threat with buckshot or #4 without hitting them and maybe a bystander with two balls and a wire or a pack of damn razor blades.  Cool to play with, but I would personally not carry any of the weird ammo if I had a .410 CC revolver.


My nephew used to swear by .410 slugs.  He used them on coons that would come around getting after his dogs.  According to him, the slugs really split them wide open.  The 1/4 ounce slug is not appropriate for deer, but is useful on coyotes, raccoon, and such. Full chokes may have an adverse effect on accuracy.

http://mcb-homis.com/slug_410/

Large buckshot like 00, is available,  but the shell can only fit like 3 00 balls, so it's usefulness is debatable.  Smaller shot, like 3 buck or 4 buck is probably more appropriate for the gauge.




So, the .410 shotgun has been around for over 100 years and is not likely to go away anytime soon.  It is an enigma.  Soft shooting, but hard to hit with.  What is it worth?  I personally find it fun if used within its limitations.  It's when people try to make the .410 do a 12 gauge job that they run into trouble.

THE .32 SMITH AND WESSON

In 1878, Smith and Wesson introduced the
Model No. 1 1/2 Single Action Revolver and with it the .32 S&W cartridge. The .32 S&W is a straight walled, rimmed, center fire cartridge that was originally loaded with black powder. It has been loaded with smokeless powder for at least 70 years now.


The .32 S&W should not be confused with the .32 S&W Long, which is simply a longer case loaded with more powder and generally the same bullet.

In fact, the original .32 S&W is sometimes referred to as the .32 S&W short.


My affiliation with this obsolete round comes from the Iver Johnson safety revolver that I purchased for my Dad a few years back. We purchased several boxes of magtech factory ammo for it. Our gun is a later production item in good shape, so I was not too concerned with it blowing up in my face. That said, the magtech does seem to be a little on the hot side. Some of that might be the 85 grain bullet as opposed to the 78 grain I currently load. The heavier the bullet, the stiffer the recoil.

  I have been loading the magtech brass topped with a 78 grain rim rock rn bullet over 1.6 grains of Unique. That load is good for right around 400 FPS over my crony. Not fast no, but plenty accurate and easy on the gun. Yes it is possible to hit something with one of those guns. I am currently working up a load using titegroup. I recently bought a chamber adapter for my Mosin Nagant that allows the use of .32 pistol ammo in the old battle rifle. That allows me to work up a load safely in a chamber designed for much higher pressures. Even if I overload it to the extreme, the gun is more than capable of handling the pressure. Once the fps is comparable to the Unique load, I can load it into the 100 year old revolver with some confidence. Loading these little jems is such fun. The magtech brass has held up very well. The only downside is the light powder charges. My powder thrower just won't dispense that low of a charge and powder dippers can be unreliable at that small a charge.


Modern day carry guns can provide much more powerful cartridges in a package about the same size as the old .32 revolvers. So the case for carrying one of the old antiques is just not there. And there goes the case for the .32 S&W as a modern defensive round. Though, that is exactly what it was intended for. And really, compared to the .25 acp or .22 lr, it is a better round. Both of those rounds see plenty of use in carry guns today, though they both produce less energy than the old .32.

It was the .32 S&W that took the life of President McKinley in 1901, though the 2 bullets that struck him did not cause his immediate death.

All about Bullets

Bullets, aka projectiles, are the thing that exits the barrel of a gun and impacts the target.  A lot goes into getting that bullet to get to the target, but this article will concentrate on the bullet itself and the different designs and materials.

Early Bullets, prior to the American civil war thereabouts, were typically soft lead.  That is they were basically pure lead or an alloy that was just slightly harder than pure lead.  That was ok because the large caliber bullets used in early guns were not intended to be loaded to anything over maybe 1000 feet per second.  At those low velocities and large bore sizes soft alloys worked just fine.  In fact the mini ball of civil war fame relied on the soft lead alloy to function.  As the black powder burned under the bullet, the hollow base expanded and sealed the bore from the gasses.  

At the end of the 19th century an absolute revolution in small arms ammunition occurred.  Black powder, which had been the only powder since the invention of the gun, was replaced by smokeless powders which are made from nitroglycerin, nitrocellulose, or a combination of both.  Along with this change in powder came changes in cartridge design.  Metallic cartridges had now replaced muzzle loading and other tedious loading procedures.  The self contained metallic cartridge was at first used with the same old black powder.  When they started loading them with smokeless, it was a marriage made in heaven.  

Black powder could only create so much pressure, so therefore the bullets used with it were rather large.  Big bullets traveling slowly (600-1000 fps)  do a lot of damage.  But with smokeless powders you can create great pressures and do the same damage with a smaller bullet.  Instead of a .50 caliber bullet doing say 600 fps.  You now had a .30 caliber doing 2000 fps.  The problem became that lead bullets just could not with stand the speeds they were being propelled at. Enter the jacketed bullet.  We'll learn more about that later.

Here is the low down.

Alloy is the term used to describe a mixture of metals.  Pure lead is very dense and works well in low speed antique applications.  However it just does not perform in smaller, faster applications.  leading of the bore is one issue.  One way to avoid the inherent problems of lead bullets is to mix the lead with other metals to make an alloy that is harder than pure lead.  These bullets are often termed "hard cast" bullets.  Metals like antimony and tin are added to the lead.  The resulting alloy is much harder than lead and perform well up to a point.  Unlike pure lead there is little or no deformation or expansion when hard cast bullets strike a target.  Like lead bullets, hard cast bullets need to be lubricated and as such will have grease groves to hold lubricant.

  Hard cast bullets work well in pistols of all types as well as rifles, so long as they are loaded to an appropriate speed.  Cast bullet loads often use powders designed for pistol and shotgun work.  One way of getting more speed out of a cast bullet is the use of a gas check.  Simply put, gas checks are copper or other soft metal attached to the bottom of a cast bullet that resist the burning powder's heat and pressure.  

Most modern factory bullets are of the jacketed variety.  Indeed, you just can't push cast bullets at the velocities developed in modern rifle loads, weather gas checked or not.  Jacketed bullets are made differently than cast bullets.  The jacket is usually made of copper.  Think of it as a gas check that covers the whole bullet.  What we see is actually just the jacket.  The lead is inside.  It is not cast, but cut from a roll of soft lead wire and inserted in the copper jacket.  Here are some terms you need to know.

Full metal jacket.  The jacket encloses the entire bullet.  These may or may not have an exposed lead base, but the sides and top of the bullet are enclosed in copper.

Hollow point.  These bullets have a cavity at the top which cause the bullet to expand when the target is impacted.  This design stops over penetration.

Soft point bullets have an exposed soft lead tip that deforms and mushrooms upon impact.  Like a hollow point, they aim to stop over penetration and deliver the kinetic energy to the target.

As you have probably noticed, bullets come in all shapes and sizes.  Flat point, spire point, wad cutter, semi wad cutter.  The nomenclature can be confusing.  All designs have a purpose.  Some are appropriate for pistols but not rifles, Some are great for varmints, some self defense.  Some are for big game.  It all depends on what you are shooting it out of and what you are shooting at.  I've included some pictures of different bullet designs.

.410 reloading on the cheap

Have you contemplated digging that old .410 out of the closet only to choke to death on the price of shells?  The current price for AA target loads at my local wal-mart is right around $12.  If you want anything other than that, the price goes up to about $16.  That's pretty disgusting when you consider I can buy a 100 round pack of 12 gauge shells from the same shelf for $22.  Let's see that's $.48 per round for .410 and $.22 per round for 12 gauge.  $.48 a round doesn't seem like much to a rifle shooter, but to a shot gunner it's murder.  A typical 12 gauge target load has 1-1/8 oz of shot and somewhere around 18-20 grains of powder whereas a .410 is only a 1/2 oz of shot and maybe 10-12 grains of powder.  They both use the same 209 primer.  Heck, even the plastic wad and shell takes less material.



To be fair, I'm sure that loading .410 shells is more time consuming for the manufacturers.  But, to me the shooter, it's still hard to swallow 16 bucks for a box of shotgun shells.

So, the cheapskate in me decides to load one up; just to see how difficult it is.  I have loaded 12 gauge shells off and on for years.  I've always used a lee load all press and had good luck doing it.  There is no load all for .410 and the mec loaders are pricey.  Obviously that was not happening.

I have a bunch of spent shells.  So, I decided to get into low cost reloading of the .410.  I took out a punch and knocked the old primer out of one.  Took a larger punch and pressed in the new one.

Then charged with powder.

Add a new wad.  I use the plastic type.  Then fill her with shot.

Using 3 inch hulls to make 2.5 inch shells allows you plenty of wiggle room.  Just trim to desired length.

Now, what do you do with the top?  It's pretty simple really. Trim the crimped portion off the top of the shell.  Cut an "over shot card" from a cereal box and glue it in place with elmers glue.  Sounds hillbilly, but it works.

Elmers dries clear.

I'm far from the first person to do this.  You can find a step by step tutorial at the end of this article.  He's using pyrodex, but the same process works for smokeless powder.  Some folks load with the old fashioned fiber wads under the shot.  You can certainly use either those or the plastic style.  Over shot cards are cheap, but I prefer making them from cereal boxes.  Compared to metallic reloading, shot shells are easy.  If you have a drill press, it can be used as a press with bolts and such to punch primers out and press them back in.  Some people roll a crimp onto the end of the shell.  I think that is a neat idea, but in the case of the .410 I'd rather preserve the life of the shell and not work the plastic over too much.

UPDATE :  I have found that using styrofoam cups to make over shot cards is by far superior to the cardboard.  Much easier to punch out and it molds to fit the shell.  So much easier to work with.

http://www.surplusfirearm.com/2011/10/29/reloading-shot-shells-without-a-reloading-press/

Ammo 101 for Newbees

This is a Bullet 



This is also a Bullet    


This is a Cartridge    

So is this    

A bullet, also known as a projectile, is the thing that actually comes out the end of the gun and hits the target.  A cartridge is an assembled package containing the Bullet, Primer, Powder, all assembled into a cartridge case.

Let's take a closer look



The case is usually made of brass, but can be made of aluminum, copper, or even steel.

The Primer is a small "cap" filled with a very small amount of pressure sensitive explosive material.  Primers have a cup and an anvil.  When the gun's firing pin strikes the primer the explosive is detonated and a hot blast of "fire"is sent into the case to ignite the powder.

Modern powder, aka propellant, is a nitrocellulose and/or nitroglycerin based product that burns at a specific rate, producing gas that pushes the bullet down the barrel of the gun.  Powder is not an explosive, but a fast burning propellant.  Think of it as powdered gasoline.  It is the fuel that makes your gun run.

Finally, there is the bullet, that thing that flies down the barrel and hits what you aimed at.  They come in all shapes and sizes. To use a slingshot as an analogy, bullets are the rocks and the rest of the cartridge is the rubber band.

So, you see, There's a lot more than a bullet at work in your gun.

BROWNING BUCKMARK

My very first firearm!!  My Nephew and I purchased this gun used around 1999.  I had just gotten into shooting and was looking to get a little something.  As it turned out, his friend's Dad had this Buckmark that he was willing to part with.

It's a Buckmark plus model, which gave you wood grips and a 5.5 inch slab sided bull barrel.  For those unfamiliar with these pistols, they are a further development of the challenger series of target pistols that Browning had been making for many years.  They are a single action, blow back operated, semi automatic using a hammer that is hidden inside the gun.  The magazine holds 10 rounds of .22 long rifle.

The frame is aluminum alloy, which is very light, but the bull barrel weighs as much as the rest of the gun.  This heft up front keeps the pistol on target and stops the shooter from swaying around too much.  These guns are a pleasure to shoot.  The trigger is ultra light.  Mine breaks at just over 2 pounds.  The sights are large in comparison to rifle sights but are easy to acquire.  The front is fixed and the rear is adjustable for windage and elevation.  My gun is an early 1990s example.  Most newer buckmarks are equipped with fiber optic sights.  I think I will replace mine with the williams fire sights at some point in the future.



The strange thing about the Buckmark is the arrangement of the slide under a cover that also serves as a mount for the rear sight.  It is uncommon and seems an odd way to design a pistol.  My Dad hates racking the slide on it because he invariably grabs the cover along with the slide.  Browning has since added a couple of blocks to give you something to grab.





This gun's accuracy is simply amazing.  The heavy barrel and ultra light trigger combine to make a target pistol that hits targets well.  I have amazed myself so many times with this gun.  Shooting golf balls standing one handed at 30 yards is so satisfying.  I used to shoot wires strung off of logs or between buildings when I had the chance.  The gun is like a helping hand, encouraging you to go for it.

It has been remarkably durable despite the thousands and thousands of rounds that have gone down the barrel.  I replaced the original recoil spring assembly with a new one from Brownells. I've also replaced the buffer that sits at the back of the frame. And this past fall I purchased 2 new magazines because the original mag had started to cause jambs, due to the spring just plain wearing out.  The new mags have an extended floor plate that make it easier to load them into the gun.

I love this gun!  If I had to replace it, I would consider a Ruger.  I've shot them and I like them.  But, the Buckmark has done me well.  Why mess with success?

An amazing engraving done by Baron Engraving

.25 ACP Revisited

John Browning designed the .25 as a semi rimmed case to aid in extraction

As you may have figured out, I'm a defender of the defenseless.  When it comes to pistol cartridges, the most hated of all is the .25 acp.  People love to hate on it because of its lack of stopping power and the fact that most guns chambered for it are tiny.  Anti gunners hate it because it it used in a fair amount of illegal activities.  Well, they hate anything.

Truth be known, there are lots of guns chambered for it.  Some of them are cheep and some are just the opposite.  Throughout the 20th century there were a plethora of very cheep automatic pistols manufactured.  Some of these "Saturday night specials" found their way into the hands of criminals.  Why?  I guess because they were cheap.  It's certainly not because they were going to blow anyone's head off.  If that's the reason to buy a gun, these thugs should carry a 500 s&w.

That's not to say that every .25 ever made was a pot metal p.o.s. My Bauer is a fine gun.  Certainly Walther, FN, and Colt never made any junk.  Unfortunately, the .25 will never shake the reputation of the poor criminal with his $50 Raven, shooting up the slums.  Not that everyone with a Raven is a criminal.  I've always felt that everyone should be able to defend themselves, regardless of how much they can spend on a gun.

I've considered hand loading for the .25 acp.  A box of 50 Remington fmj rounds is $20-$25.  Not bad for the occasional outing with the Bauer, but if I were to acquire more arms in this round, I would start loading for it.  A mere 1.6 grains of unique will push a 49 grain bullet over 800 fps.  Sounds like an economy round to me.